Yellow Aster Butte

After a pleasant drive from Bellingham we reached the trailhead for Yellow Aster Butte. On the way, we had stopped at the ranger station to pick up the parking passes for 3 days. The ranger had told us to expect lots of snow nearly from the start of the trail. We were thinking she hadn't gotten updated on the trail for a long time as we were looking up towards the mountains and only the high points had any snow on them. Although some fresh snow was visible way up high on some trees…we didn't think much of it then…

We started the hike up some switchbacks going through trees and meadows. Flowers were blooming everywhere and we were enjoying ourselves. After about 20 minutes or so we started seeing some snow and ran into a couple of hikers that were on their way down. They warned there was some postholing to be done ahead. The snow suddenly appeared in huge quantities on sections of the path. We had to scale these sections and sunk to our knees in most places.

Soon after we got out of the trees and out into some other meadows. These ones were not flowering. They were completely covered in snow. We were following someone's footsteps in the snow, which seemed to leave the main trail. Not that we knew where the trail was, as the snow covered all. We were starting to get a little worried. The trail wasn't marked at all in that section and the footsteps seemed to go nowhere. Eventually however they led us up a steep section and we had regained the trail. There were some bare spots there so we could easily identify it. A short walk and we reached a split in the trail with a sign pointing left for Yellow Aster Butte and ahead for Tomyhoi Lake. We went left.

After some time was spent postholing, following some stranger's footprints we decided we should look at a map to see if this was going where we wanted to. We were starting to feel anxious as we became too reliant on this person's steps for direction. Looking at the map and compass we kept guessing our location until finally Sophie figured out where we really were. The steps we were following seemed to go where we wanted, which was south of Yellow Aster Butte and around. Although, we did get a little scared when we found out we were actually a couple of kms to the west of where we thought we were up to that point (we have got to practice those map reading skills more.) So we continued.

We eventually crossed a running creek and I suggested the site as a good spot to set up camp. It was a sheltered location with running water. We were both pretty exhausted from all the postholing with our heavy packs. Also, the solitude and our unfamiliarity of the trail started to play tricks with our minds. It was snowing and Sophie was really worried we wouldn't be able to find our way back if it snowed too much. I was just nervous because it was taking too long to get to the tarns where we wanted to set up camp and we were both getting very tired. We had no idea how much longer it will take since we weren't perfectly clear on where we were on the map anymore. Sophie suggested we keep going for a while longer so we continued.

The footsteps in the snow finally led us to this wall that was clearly steeper than 45 degrees. I got a little nervous so I decided to take my axe and climb up kicking holes. The going was slow but I finally reached the end of the steps where the snow ended and mud began. Sophie joined me up there while I tried to climb the muddy section. That's where I had had enough. It was just way too steep and I could barely get any grip on that steep mud. So we started going down. Sophie was too nervous to down climb with that big pack on her back so she rolled it off and slid after it. I just down climbed using my axe facing the mountain. That's when we found some other footsteps that led into the trees and we found the trail again. It was visible and obvious again because of some bare patches.

We continued on, hoping those damn tarns will be right around the corner. Sophie was visibly tired and I could tell she was very nervous and wasn't enjoying herself anymore. I was mirroring her feelings and just wanted to set up camp so we can relax. So we continued on following the prints in the snow, on the side of a mountain and up another steep section towards something. The mountains around were massive and made me feel small and humble. We persevered and I felt confident we were close. "It's right behind that ridge…it has to be." So we got to the top of it and Tomyhoi was visible in all its glory. But the tarns were still so far. My heart sank and my pulse quickened. The wind was howling and it was snowing lightly. We walked on the shoulder around the third peak to the south of Yellow Aster Butte (now that we're home, we finally figured out where we were on the map) trying to find an easy way to continue. As we were walking over this patch of snow I heard ice cracking under me so I realized we were walking on a small frozen pond so we quickly got away from there.

I started climbing up to get a better view of the area. The only way I could see was up, up and around. Steep, semi-bare and slippery. Sophie was looking extremely tired and told me this was already past her safety zone. The solitude, exhaustion, the howling wind and worsening weather along with our unfamiliarity with the area were all working against us and we were getting scared and in desperate need to set up camp. I looked around the area but there was no sheltered zone. There were nothing but steep exposed sections. So we decided to turn back and camp near the section where we had our fun with the axe. The area next to that wall was nicely sheltered and pretty flat. So we returned to that spot.

I started digging in the snow, building walls for our tent. Sophie looked around for a source of water and a safe place to store our food. As I was working I suddenly hear voices and see a couple of hikers heading our way. Couldn't quite tell who they were from that distance but next thing I know they called my name. It was Bob and Serena. Our hearts just suddenly lifted. We were so happy to have company. And I knew having them around would greatly reduce our anxiety at being so isolated in an unknown land.

They set up camp next to us. We worked together on building a kitchen and had dinner. We shared stories of our hike that day. We were all shocked at how much snow there was up there and how difficult it made an otherwise easy trail be. We started the hike expecting warm conditions with rain and snow on the ground only by the tarns. It was very different. It was cold. It was snowing. It was windy. It was full on winter conditions. Luckily we had come prepared for winter. I had all of my layers on and was quite cozy. My boots and socks were completely soaked however so I had to improvise something to keep from getting frostbite in my feet. I replaced my socks with dry ones and fashioned some nylon socks from garbage bags and put my feet back in the boots. That worked surprisingly well. Once I put my waterproof layers on and gaiters, things were perfect.

We melted some water for our dinner. Sophie worked on making us a great dehydrated soup. It was tasty and very filling. We were quite satisfied and happy the food turned out so good. We sat around chatting with Bob and Serena until it got dark and we retired to our tents. Our new plan was to see how bad the weather will be in the morning and hike up towards Tomyhoi if it's nice or turn back home if it's ugly out.

After a pleasant night listening to the wind howling and snow sliding off our tent we woke up with the sun. At least I thought the sun was out until I got out of the tent. The clouds were very low, it was freezing cold and it was snowing lightly. We had breakfast, tea and started packing.

I tried desperately to warm my feet up. The water in my boots had frozen overnight and when I put my feet into them it felt like wrapping them in ice. My pinky toes were fighting a battle against frostbite. They had turned a bit numb by the time we started going. (We had all decided, without even talking about it, we'll just head back down.) The way back was mostly downhill with a few uphill sections for which I was extremely grateful. The uphills got my heart pumping which made me generate a lot of heat (I still had all of my layers on…t-shirt, shirt, fleece, jacket, waterproof shell, long undies, fleece pants, plastic waterproof pants, gaiters). I could almost feel my toes again. By the time we reached the junction with the Tomyhoi Lake trail they were fully recovered.

At this point Bob wanted to go up to Gold Run Pass to see if we can see Tomyhoi Lake from there. I went with him and left Sophie and Serena with our packs. They wanted to stay behind. Bob and I reached a ridge and could see a valley with a couple of rivers being fed by the snow from the surrounding cliffs. Huge avalanche chutes were visible all around. It was a beautiful view but there was no lake. Seeing the lake meant a bit of a longer hike up this ridge so we turned back and rejoined Sophie and Serena. The hike back to the car was quick and pleasant and we were glad to change out of our clothes. We then drove to Glacier. We stopped by the ranger station to give an update on the conditions up there and joined Bob and Serena for a yummy lunch at Milano's.

I'm a little disappointed we didn't get to climb Tomyhoi at all but I'm sure to return to the area. It is spectacular. We learned a lot from this trip and the next one will find us even better prepared…